We arrived in Krakow, Poland via an eight hour train ride from Prague. I couldn't see out the window as our assigned seats faced each other in the middle of the train. I don't know if it was a beautiful journey or not, only that it was slow enough for me to read almost a complete book.
Krakow was cold and black at our 10:00 pm arrival. A suitable beginning for our prediction of a country full of dark history, sadness and despair. Even the hostel was gloomy, as we buzzed our way in to an old, worn building with wooden stairs up to a chilly room. I was descending into my own personal despair, wondering why we had come to this place and how fast we could leave. But, as always, after a good night sleep, the outlook was better.
In the morning I walked to the main town center to take a free walking tour offered in most of these European cities. Meeting in front of yet another church, the group consisted of our Polish leader Chris, a Czech family, two Mexicans, a couple Spainards, an Australian, 4 from New Zealand, a Norwegian and a sweet gal from Texas. We spent three hours together, walking from place to place with Chris telling both factual truths and urban legends......we learned Poland's history of 1000 years of war, it's division, unity, redivision and reunity, depending on the neighboring countries strength at the time and the Polish resolve for independence. We learned about the religious tolerance of the country which was a reason so many European Jews had settled here. Prior to WWII, 70,000 Jews lived in Krakow. Now, only around 200. We saw the Jewish neighborhoods that were filmed in Schindlers List. We saw the place that Pope John Paul stood at his window and told the locals to go away. We saw the great Wawal Castle and heard the buggle at noon from the church tower.
I wondered why we Americans tell Polack jokes. Is it because the Polish people have been getting kicked around by everybody in the last two centuries? Or was it because Poland was so easily overrun by the Germans in WWII? I don't know the answer, but Chris told some good jokes during the tour. Were they Polack jokes? Anyways.........
I met up with some from the tour group later that night at a jazz bar. We sat around listening to music and talking until after midnight. I came in late and Molly wondered where I had been and was worried about me.........imagine that, the roles had been reversed! I was pretty proud of myself and my day in Krakow.
As I folded my laundry, done by the hostel staff, I found all our light wash was a faded shade of blue. They must have mixed the darks and lights together.................crud. Then I realized, maybe that was a Polack joke.....played on me.
